Japan: Take 2

The best laid plans of mice…

-Slartibartfast

When I left Canada nearly six weeks ago it was with the promise that I would be blogging nearly every day.  I said that I was going to be traveling around the country on the week-ends, I would be taking a ton of pictures, and I would be blogging about my experiences.

While I have blogged a little bit over the past few weeks, it has not been nearly as much as I had hoped.  There are several reasons for this:

  1. I have been busier with work than I anticipated.  It has all been a good kinda busy, but busy nonetheless.
  2. My accommodations, while not generally uncomfortable, are, for me, not conducive to writing.
  3. While in many ways the trip has been going extremely well, I suppose I have been in a bit of a funk.

Does that mean that I have not been traveling?  That I have once again wasted this wonderful opportunity of travel abroad?  Definitely not.  While I have not traveled as much as I would have liked to, I have taken a few trips:

  • My regular readers will know that I spent a wonderful week-end in Kyoto a few weeks ago.
  • I have taken two day trips to see Mount Fuji, and to experience the areas around the mountain.
  • While Shibuya is in Tokyo, I spent two incredible evenings over Halloween taking pictures there.
  • I have booked an evening next Saturday in Nara, so I will get there by train earlier in the day, toddle around, and in the morning I will take another tour.

12194657_10153088877761898_2047175420690303089_oNow, I should mention that between my two trips to see Mount Fuji, or Fuji-San as it is referred to here, both of them were to one degree or another a bust.  On my first trip the weather was completely overcast… from the moment I got up in Tokyo until the moment I went to sleep the rain and clouds did not abate.  This picture, taken on the shores of Lake Yamanaka-ko, shows Mount Fuji in the background… if you are able to see through the clouds, which I am not.

Doshi Rest Area 3 - CopyThat doesn’t mean that I didn’t have a great time on the trip.  Simon and I met at the train station where we rented the car, and took the scenic route into the country.

Our first stop was the Japanese equivalent of a Rest Area… only it was not the generic, cookie-cutter type area that I am used to.  It was called the Doshi Service Area, and it was gorgeous, relaxing, and very… restful.  It was built on the banks of a stream, and offered an opportunity to take some great pictures.  Although there was ‘fast food’ available for purchase, there was also a delicacy of fish grilled on a stick.  I opted for a bag of crisps instead.

As we drove along the Pacific Coast (on the Tokkaido Road.  What was once the ancient roadway during the times of the Samurai is now a nice stretch along the ocean with tourist spots and surfing and sun bathing.  According to one of my friends, you have to be very aware of the hawks along this stretch… not because they are a danger to you, rather because they will steal your food right out of your hands.  I was tempted to stop and pick up a sandwich just to experience this, but I decided to put that aside for another day.

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We stopped for lunch at a traditional Japanese Soba restaurant.  I had experienced several ‘authentic’ Japanese restaurants where you seemed to sit on the floor, but under the table there was a hole to put your legs and sit normally.  Not here… You could sit cross-legged, on your knees, or straight-legged with your legs under the table if you wanted, but this was the real deal.  They cut their soba noodles by hand, and you could order any drink you wanted… as long as you wanted tea.  It was a wonderful experience, and even if I hadn’t been pretty comfortable, it was my goal to experience the real Japan during my stay.  This is as real as it gets!

After lunch we went for a tour of the Kirin Gotemba Distillery.  We got to see how they make and store whisky, and at the end of the tour we got to taste it.  While it was a nice experience, I think the whisky they produce there (yes, they are blends) are sub-par.  They gave us two drams, neither of which was worth my time.  I did however buy a set of six whisky glasses for my bar at home – the base has a 3D carving of Mount Fuji, which when you pour your liquid in takes on that hue.  Truly very nice, and I hope they survive the plane ride!

…And then we arrived at the highlight of the day trip.  The best thing that could possibly have happened on this rainy Sunday afternoon.  We arrived at the Onsen.

If I had to pick one thing that the Japanese do soooo much better than anyone else, it is the Onsen.

The mountains around Mount Fuji and Hakone are quite volcanic.  Because of that, and I expect because of their proximity to the ocean, there is an abundance of hot springs.  The onsen is a hot spring bathing area.  You enter, removing and storing your shoes at the entrance.  You are given a wrist band which is good for everything… it is your ID, but it also has a bar code so that anything you want to buy while on the premises (and aside from the restaurant there is also a gift shop) will simply be charged to your account – in other words, you can walk around in a towel, go in and out of the baths, and do anything you would like without having to carry or go get your wallet – or worry about it getting wet.

After we finished a very relaxing afternoon, we decided to head into Hakone to get dinner… and buy a particular candy that is hand made there, and which my friend Simon is quite partial to.  I was hoping to look into an art shop or two, but we spent too much time at onsen and only got to town when the stores were closing.  Oh well Smile

I mentioned I had taken two trips to Fuji-San; as wonderful as the first was, the second was essentially a waste of time and money.  Simon, who took me the first time, knew exactly where to go, what routes to take, and so on.  What he did not know, he asked.  My second trip was taken with a friend Jay who reminded me of… me, twenty years ago.  He thought he knew everything, refused help, and because of that we spent nearly five hours driving (to the wrong spot) and arriving with a very half-decent view of Fuji three minutes after sundown.  In other words, we saw the top of the mountain far in the distance… but not well enough to take a picture.  I did get a couple of decent shots of the lake… but that was not what I traveled for.  Oh well, live and learn.

While I started writing this article a few days ago, it is now Saturday at 12:26, and I am on the Shinkansen (Bullet Train) bound for Kyoto, from where I will transfer to the train for Nara.  I am looking forward to my last weekend in Japan… even though I am dying to go home already.  This trip was too long without seeing my family.

Who would have guessed it by the way… After two failed trips, I just got some absolutely breathtaking pictures of Fuji-San from the train!  Wow, I feel blessed.  The mountain is truly a sight to see.  I am also blessed because this afternoon (or tomorrow morning) I will have the opportunity to feed the deer in Nara Park, and if you know me, you know I love wildlife!

A couple of months ago when I realized I was coming back to Japan I set certain goals for myself: I wanted to take a lot of pictures, I wanted to travel outside of Tokyo almost every weekend, and I wanted to blog a lot.  While I do not feel like I did a good job on achieving these goals, I didn’t do too badly.  I had seven weekends here, and I left Tokyo for four of them (although two were day-trips without an overnight).  I didn’t blog nearly enough, but that was in part because I have been very busy with work, and have not had the proper work area where I am staying to do so.  I have taken some breathtaking pictures though… not only of Fuji-San, but of nature, temples, shrines, and people.  It has been a wonderful experience (if a bit too long), and I am thrilled to have lived it.  I am also thrilled that in four days I am getting on a plane and coming home.

I will try to write another article, this time about Nara, on the train back tomorrow.  Unfortunately I did not bring my SD-Card Reader (www.juicedsystems.com) with me, so if I am going to include pictures I will not publish until after I am back.  However whether now or later, I promise you will see them!

A (Mostly) Boring Trip

I really did have images of going out and having fun every night.

I really planned to travel outside of Tokyo and see the country every weekend.

That is not what happened.

Don’t get me wrong… I have gone out for dinners, if mostly close to home.  I have also been spending a lot of time relaxing at a pleasant spot called Le Connoisseur Cigar Lounge – certainly not a Japanese name, and certainly not a French lounge.  But I have been enjoying it nonetheless (as seen in this article https://garvis.ca/2015/10/16/sushi-cigars-welcome-to-japan-mitch/).  It turns out that it is a chain of lounges, and I have spent many evenings at the one that is within walking distance of my apartment.

I have also traveled out of Tokyo twice – once by Shinkansen (Bullet Train) to Kyoto), and once by car (with a friend) to Mount Fuji.  Well, he tells me we were at Mount Fuji… it was a very overcast and rainy day and the mountain was absolutely invisible through the clouds.  We made up for it though – we went for a very authentic lunch (on tatami mats on the floor and all) at a local restaurant, we went for a distillery tour at the Kirin Gotemba Distillery, and we spent a couple of hours in the onsen (hot springs) before having an agreeable dinner and then driving back to Tokyo.

But all in all, I am not doing even as much as I did the last time I was here… despite having more money to spend (if I wanted to), more free time (okay… about the same free time), and living a little closer to the action (I am four subway stops from Shibuya).

I am spending most of my evenings in one of two places – at the cigar lounge, or at the apartment.  Yes, after the first week in a hotel room slightly smaller than a respectable prison cell, the company found an apartment for me.  It may be small to some, but having moved out of the shoe box it feels utterly palatial to me.

I watch TV – that is to say, I download the American TV shows I would normally be watching at home – and I watch movies.  I do have work to do in the evenings, as I am still taking care of the network back in Oakville.  However if I wanted to there is no reason I couldn’t (if I so desired) be out exploring the city every night.  I just don’t seem to want to.

I want to be clear – I am not loving Tokyo less than I used to.  It is an amazing city and I love being here.  I probably went out more at the beginning of my stay – I went to Shibuya several evenings – but maybe it is the result of my being in a reasonably posh area; there is every sort of restaurant I might want to try (If you are following me on Facebook you will know that I have had Yakiniku, Soba, Tempura, and of course loads and loads of sushi… not to mention a couple of Chinese and a couple of Korean meals just to mix it up a bit.  All within a kilometer of my apartment.

I should mention that I am not staying home every night; I have gone out on the week-ends (Halloween was amazing, and I have also gone out with friends to a few different areas).  It is just a little less frequently than it could be… than it once was.

Maybe, a little too late, I am becoming the homebody that my ex-wife wished I had become much sooner.  Maybe I am just not enjoying being on the road as much as I used to.

I miss my kids… I speak with them on Skype and VoIP often enough, but it is not the same.  And of course, my girlfriend is all the way back there too.  It is harder to be separated from her for longer periods than it would have been for me a few years ago.  Maybe at long last I am growing up.  Maybe I am finally… Naaah!

I have really been enjoying my work, and I am glad to be here for that.  My boss and I discussed it earlier, and we agreed that this is the length of time we needed for me to be here for this project.  I am enjoying working with my team, and meeting other people on other teams.  It has been a blast, and I hope I can continue to work with this company on other projects when this one is over.  We’ll see…

Two weeks before I head home, and the trip is far from over.  I might still venture out of town one more time, and I have several evenings planned… with friends, colleagues, and even one with a reader who reached out to me.  How cool is that?  Each of those will be another evening of fun and excitement, hopefully exploring new places and areas and discovering new foods and treasures.

But unlike past trips, I am counting the days… I am so looking forward to getting home, to hugging my kids, playing with my dogs, and of course seeing Stephanie.

Fourteen days to go.

Kyoto is to Tokyo…

I got off the Shinkansen (Bullet Train) at Kyoto Station, which was a hustling and bustling place, just like Tokyo Marunouchi Station where I had embarked.  In fact while the layout was different and so were the shops, there wasn’t all that much to differentiate this building from all of the other major ports I had visited.  I might as well still be in Tokyo for all the difference it made.

I walked outside, and by the time I was a couple of blocks from the station I realized I was in a very different world from the Tokyo I had left behind less than three hours earlier.

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Don’t get me wrong… Kyoto is busy and bustling and there are lots of people around… but unlike Tokyo (where everything is modern and neon, unless you are around a temple or shrine), this city had a different look, a different feel… a different vibe, if you will.

At first I thought it was the slightly smaller scale.  When you exit the station it feels more manageable, less overwhelming.  It might be like traveling from Montreal to Calgary – the smaller city being easier to manage.

A hawk flying overhead at the Ginkakuji Shrine

Then I thought it might have to do with the people… Tokyo is a very stressful place after all, but Tokyo moreso than the rest of the country.  Maybe it was like going from Montreal to Vancouver – a little less stressed, a little more laid back.

And then someone told me that Kyoto had been spared the aerial bombardment that Tokyo endured during World War 2; he told me a story about American Secretary of War George Stimson who had honeymooned in Kyoto, and spared the city because of his wonderful memories of it.   In fact, Kyoto, was the top choice of the Targeting Committee tasked with deciding where to drop the first atomic bombs (this committee included Robert Oppenheimer).  Stimson did veto it, but it might have had more to do with the fact that Kyoto had little military significance, and the destruction would have been entirely civilian.  (Source: https://www.quora.com/Is-it-true-that-Kyoto-Japan-was-nearly-bombed-in-WWII)

One of the gates to the Hingashi Honganji Shrine

So instead of having a city completely rebuilt after 1945 (while there are many older sites in Tokyo, many of the temples and shrines have been rebuilt to look like the originals), Kyoto actually has buildings and sites that date to the 15th century… and earlier.  Maybe a more accurate comparison would be to equate the Tokyo-Kyoto trip to the Toronto-Quebec City trip.  Tokyo and Toronto, the busiest metropolises in their respective countries, modern, crowded, stressed; both replete with modern skyscrapers reaching for the heavens.  Kyoto and Quebec City, calmer, quieter, shorter… while there are modern buildings, they are smaller, and there are many historical sites dating back hundreds of years, lovingly preserved; both more concerned with history, beauty, and culture than with the race to be the best.

One of the towers of the Hingashi Honganji Shrine

I could have spent another week in Kyoto and not seen everything there is to see.  I don’t know when I will be back, but I hope I will have the opportunity soon.

Kyoto: The Ancient Capital

The last time I was in Japan I did not leave Tokyo. This time I vowed would be different. Before I left Canada I bought several Japan Rail passes, and I was ready to explore.

After consulting with my peeps over here, and with Simon’s help tracking down a room (it seems autumn is a difficult season to your last minute!) I made plans to spend my first weekend out in Kyoto. Saturday morning I redeemed my first JR pass and boarded the 11:03 Shinkansen (bullet train) on the Osaka Line. I was in Kyoto at 1:44, having enjoyed the train ride even though I was working on a report.

Riyoyan 1I have stayed in enough ‘western style’ hotels to choke a horse, and the Tokyo Efficiency hotels are way too cramped. I reserved a Ryokan- a very traditional Japanese room, that looks very much like the ones you see in movies depicting the times of the Shogunate. I arrived after a short walk from the train station and was welcomed by the front desk, and a bellhop in traditional Japanese attire carried my bag to my room on the sixth floor. Upon entering the room I removed my shoes in the foyer, and walked into the tatami room. There was a table with a tea service, and that was it. I loved it.

Notice I didn’t say anything about a bed; in a traditional ryokan the maid comes in the evening, moves the table to the side, and sets up your bedding on the tatamis. Spectacular!

Ryokay Ready for Bed

Before I left Tokyo I tried to book a number of bus tours, but was informed that I was too late. Oh well, right? Well it turned out to be for the better, because I was able to book the exact same tours at the Kyoto Train Station for much less money. Woot!

Dinner is served!The evening tour would involve a very traditional Kyoto Cuisine dinner. They tell me that because Kyoto is surrounded by mountains it was difficult to get fresh seafood in, and because of that the chefs are tasked with creating wonderful dishes that are simpler than you would find in other areas.  The chef at our restaurant did a magnificent job – both the presentation and the taste was fabulous!

Our next stop was Gion Corner, where we got to experience seven forms of Japanese art and culture in one sitting.  The show is designed to not only expose gaijin (foreigners) to the beauty of Japanese culture, but also to show a generation of Japanese growing up in a modern society their roots.

The show started with the emcee asking the audience for volunteers to experience the Japanese tea ceremony, and my hand shot up.  Two of us got to experience it, with the Tea Master and her apprentice working hard to make sure the experience was highly authentic.  We were shown how to turn the cup, and how to hold it in both hands.

Koto Players 3

Flower Arranging 1As we sat in the tea corner, the next two sets of artists took to the main stage: Two women playing an instrument called a koto (a 13-stringed instrument that lies flat and is strummed with the fingers) played, while two other women took turns arranging flowers.  It had never occurred to me that flower arrangement could be a performance art, but for a culture that for centuries has revered the beauty in simplicity, I suppose it makes sense.  These two pairs worked side by side for the next several minutes.

When this group left the stage the next musical act came on.  The gagaku is a style of music that was played exclusively in the ancient imperial court, and as such never gained the widespread popularity of other arts.  While the music did not appeal to me, I found the costume of the conductor (who was almost dancing) was amazing, and well worth the show.

Gagaku Conductor 2

Once the Gakaku left the stage we were introduced to a Japanese comedy troupe.  It is easy to imagine that there would be a language barrier to understanding, and at first there was.  Three men in kimonos came onto the stage in turn, and after a few minutes the language fell away, and their performance triumphed.  They were a hilarious hit with the mostly foreign audience!

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Next came the Maiko dancers.  Apprentice geishas, these dancers are meant to be flawless in their beauty and movements.  As you might imagine, I took a couple of pictures… along with the videos!

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The last performance was a form of puppetry that I had never imagined before.  Three men came onto the stage dressed entirely in black – two of them were hooded as well – in control of a single marionette-cum-Muppet.  I confess that I did not follow the story line very well, but I was enthralled by how the three men worked in unison to control this person (and they did such a great job of bringing her to life that I thought of her as a person).  She walked across the stage, then climbed the tower, and it was easy to forget that she was made of wood.

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The following day I woke at a reasonable hour and after getting breakfast I went on my second tour.  We were to visit three temples and shrines, and each was incredible to see.

At the Golden Temple 2

It struck me as our tour guide spoke (okay, as the translation played in my ear) that nearly every site we were shown was on the World Heritage or National Treasures or some other fancy list.  However when you see the spots we visited it is no wonder… Kyoto is absolutely breathtaking.

The picture of me near the Golden Shrine is not the best picture I have taken, and was indeed taken by a fellow Canadian I met from another tour.  He and his wife were in from Vancouver, and seeing that I had a good camera as well, they were happy to let me take a picture of them with their camera, and I let them take one of me with mine.

Unlike many parts of Japan, I am told that Kyoto was spare the destructive power of the U.S. Army during World War II.  Consequently many of the sites date back to the days of the Shogunates.  Unlike tours I took in Tokyo, when they mentioned that a temple had been rebuilt after the original had been destroyed by war, that was was usually hundreds of years ago.  It is no wonder that there are so many sites recognized internationally and by the Japanese as Heritage sites.

Ginkaku-ji Shrine was built by Shogun Ashikaga Yoshimasa as a retirement villa in 1982 (ten years before Christopher Columbus set sail for ‘India’).  Walking around, you can see that the Shogun (military ruler, and separate from the Emperor) knew how to live.  ZSC_0279

Our last stop of the tour was the Kiyomizudera Temple, and while it was also a World Heritage muckety-muck, I was more interested in observing the people.

Kiyomizudera Temple 1

We were there on a Sunday, and it was an absolutely gorgeous day outside.  I suppose these factors contributed to a plethora of Japanese visiting the temple for religious reasons.  When I think of dressing up for synagogue I always think of putting my best suit on (my Saturday best?).  Here they dress up as well, but their outfits are not western.  And so there were a plethora of Japanese women (and quite a few men) in their traditional kimonos.

ZSC_0390 As you can see from this duo, many of them were out taking the same sort of pictures I was (note the ‘selfie stick’).  However unlike them, I was certainly not dressed for the occasion.  Nevertheless they were all very happy and smiling, and most of them were thrilled to pose when asked.
All of the kimonos were colourful and bright.  I am told that women tend to opt for less colourful kimonos later in life, but these were all happy colours. ZSC_0360
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From what I was told, no visit to Kyoto would be complete without experiencing the special and unique sweets they make.  Made by hand, they are difficult to describe… other than absolutely heavenly.  Depending on the variety they can have macha or sesame or chocolate or any of a dozen other fillings, and the ones I tasted were magical.  I brought some back to the office as Omiyage and they were extremely well received… possibly even moreso than the Quebec Maple Candy I brought when I arrived.

All in all I had a wonderful time in Kyoto, and strongly recommend spending a few days there the next time you find yourself in Japan!

Going Away…

When I leave town for two or three days my preparation depends on two factors: How am I going (by car versus by air or train), and what will I be doing (business versus pleasure).  My usual MO is to pack two bags: Clothes and sundries in one, electronics (photography and computers) in another.  Depending on how I travel I will pack differently – if I am driving I don’t need to be anywhere near as efficient as if I am flying, because I can just throw things into the trunk.

When I leave town for a week or longer I have to be more careful; will I have the ability to do laundry where I will be, and so on.  However aside from that, the only thing that usually changes is that for more than three days I will take a proper suitcase instead of throwing my clothes and kit into a backpack.

What about longer trips?  As I write this I am less than a week from getting onto a plane that will take me away for nearly two months.  I will be going to a different country with a different culture, different language, and different customs.  There are several factors I have to consider for a trip of this magnitude, and a lot more planning goes into it.Japan1

I am going to Japan… one of my favourite countries in the world for sure, but definitely a different culture.  So here are some of the things I planned for, and hopefully will help you the next time you head out on the road:

1) There’s no question about it… I can’t get away with a single suitcase.  The reason isn’t as simple as I need more clothes – although I do.  However other things that will go into my suitcase will include my small laptop bag and my messenger bag, because I like to carry most of my electronics on me (and especially my computers and camera equipment) as carry-on, so rather than just carrying on a small and unobtrusive laptop bag, I start with the fact that I need two carry-ons – one for my camera equipment (which is a full sized backpack), and one for my computers… even though both of my computers are very small, there is a lot of extra gear that I will take with me.  On the other hand, once I am in Tokyo I do not want to have to lug my large Briggs & Riley laptop bag (which when empty weights three or four pounds) back and forth from the office to my hotel.briggsu174ol

2) You never know… and that’s the problem, you do not always know what you will be faced with once you get to the destination.  That goes for both camera equipment (and so I am taking two camera bodies and five lenses), and computers (which is why I will take a docking station, external speakers, as well as a plethora of cables and connectors and adapters (and not to mention a wireless network switch).  Why?  Because I might need to connect to HDMI… or VGA, or Display Port.  I will likely want to watch TV and movies in my hotel, but that will mean downloading them to my computer, and then watching them (hopefully with my computer connected to the hotel’s TV).  I need a PowerPoint remote for when I present, and I need a ton of other things that I can’t think of… but don’t want to have to buy again (I remember arriving in Hong Kong only to discover I had forgotten my wireless presenter mouse, and had to buy a presenter and a mouse).

3) Cell phone woes… If I were going to the USA for seven weeks I wouldn’t worry about it because of my cell phone plan.  However I wasn’t sure with regard to Japan so I called my provider and asked, and sure enough, there was no good way for me to use my Canadian cell phone in Japan.  The first thing I did was had them unlock the phone for me, so that I could just get a SIM card to put into it in Japan.  I asked my colleagues in country to look into the best way to do that, and they did.  However what I wouldn’t have thought of before was this… My cell phone plan costs about $140 per month.  I will not be using it for the next two months.  I cannot cancel it… but what I did do was change the plan to the least expensive one they offered.  It leaves me with enough data for the week until I leave, but no more.  Rather than having the lavish 10GB per month plan with unlimited North American calling, I now have a 1GB plan with ten hours per month.

**NOTE: If you are going to do this, you also have to make sure you change it back at the tail end of your trip.  I put a reminder in my calendar to call them back the day I get back.

4) Renew prescriptions! If you are my age there is a decent chance you have at least one medication that you take daily.  Make sure you have enough for the entire trip.

**NOTE: Insurance may screw you on this.  In speaking with my pharmacist last night I found out that insurance plans often will not allow you to renew your prescription until you are 2/3 way through your last refill.  Make sure you don’t get dinged.

5) Weather the whether… or whatever.  I am leaving for Japan on October 14.  I know what the weather will be like this week.  However I also have to anticipate what the weather will be like in Japan in six weeks, so that I am not stuck wearing shorts when it is 5C outside.  If you are traveling across seasons, make sure you have enough appropriate clothes for both seasons.

6) SHOES ARE IMPORTANT!  I always pack with the philosophy that whatever I forget I can just buy when I am there.  When I was preparing for my first trip to Japan my boss warned me that I will not be able to get shoes in my size in Japan, so I made sure to take an extra pair… just in case.

7) The last time I went away for a long period of time I lived with my family.  Now that I am living on my own it is important to make sure someone is checking in on my condo every couple of days.  Let’s be honest… the one bamboo plant I have does not need watering; however it is important to make sure that there are no leaks, that the pipes don’t freeze, and that nothing goes wrong.  Every few days should be enough, and that is taken care of.  Also, rather than ‘stopping my mail’ it is a good idea to have someone bring the mail from the mailbox into the house.

Traveling abroad for longer periods can be fun… even when you are going for work.  Planning for every contingency is impossible, but giving it a bit of thought will make your trip more enjoyable.  As they say, Luck favours the prepared mind!

Whisky is Wonderful, but…

If you know me, you probably know that I am a whisky drinker.  Had you asked me eighteen months ago I would have said I am a scotch drinker, but that changed when Michael Kulwicki joined the Rakuten End User Technology team in October of 2013.  YoIchi 15_resized

Michael is Scottish, but is living in Tokyo with his wife Noriko.  He joined the EUT team and we worked very closely together for the next three months.  During that time we became friends.  Although it is easy to think that we were the only two Anglo-Saxons working at a Japanese company and so we naturally hung out together, that would be a wrong assumption.  We had a lot of common interests, ranging from IT to James Bond and other literature to – you guessed it – scotch.

Being married to a Japanese woman, and having lived previously in Japan teaching snowboarding, Michael has several distinct advantages over me, not the least of which is that he speaks Japanese, as well as reading it.  He reads and writes it, and when we were out and about he was an excellent companion for many reasons, one of which was his ability to translate the world in a country that is quite unilingual.

Knowing that I enjoyed scotch, he started talking to me about Japanese whisky, from the history and how a gentleman names Masataka Taketsuru (and his Scottish wife) brought the whisky-making process to Japan, to different distilleries and expressions available to us today.  We made sure to look for decent bottles whenever we were out and about, and we found quite a few. 

The best of the expressions that I would eventually discover though was not with Michael, rather at one of the myriad Duty Free Stores at Narita International Airport.  These stores will allow you to sample several of the whiskies that you are considering, which is, for someone like myself, a very smart way to get my business.  You see, I am always loathe to buy a bottle for ¥8,000 (at the time around $75) blind for a bottle that I might love… or not.  And so it was on my way home to Canada that I first experienced the YOICHI 15 year old expression from Nikka Whisky.  It is, in my opinion, the best whisky that I have had for less than $100 for a litre.

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I was excited last April when another colleague – Ross Cavanaugh – was coming to Toronto from Japan.  I was going to pick him up from the airport and bring him to the Kobo offices in Toronto… and while I would have done so anyways, I was especially eager because he was bringing me a bottle of my favourite expression.  Of course, he was not flying straight from Tokyo – he flew to New York and then to Boston, and only then did he come to Toronto.  As you can see in the photo above, the bottle did NOT get here safely.  I hope the TSA Agent at Boston Logan enjoyed it as much as I would have Smile

In January I started a new contract back with Rakuten, which was very exciting for several reasons – not the least of which that I would once again be working with Michael.  The first day of the contract found the both of us landing in Seattle for a week of meetings at Microsoft.  Not one to miss out on an opportunity, I asked him to bring me a bottle, and of course he did.  However the bottle (pictured above) is not what touched me, not what I will treasure forever.

Michael and Norkio frequent a bar in Tokyo where the bar allows you to buy a bottle of your favourite spirit, and they will keep it for you.  They would put a name tag or label on the bottle I suppose, and when you came in they would pour it for you.  I don’t know all of the specifics, but it sounds simply marvellous to someone like me who does not usually go in for the whiskies that most bars keep on hand.  I promise you the next time I am in Tokyo I am going to try to go to this bar though to experience it for myself.

Name Plate_resizedAt some point, it would seem, the bar owner decided to make special name plates for his patrons. He cut a piece of wood, painted (caligraphied) the patron’s name on it, then ‘’chopped” it – signed it with his personal stamp.  Noriko and Michael asked if he would make one with my name on it, and he did.  When I opened the box that contained the whisky, the name plate was around the neck of the bottle.

I was thrilled to get the bottle, don’t get me wrong.  While I do not drink a lot or often, I am very happy to have the bottle back in my bar.  However bottles come and bottles go… this name plate means so much more to me than that, and it will be with me for a very long time to come.

Now, for those of you wondering “What if it doesn’t really say Mitch?” I have a simple way of being sure.  When I was in Japan I asked someone to type my name in Japanese so that I could add it to my e-mail signature.  Even for the year I was not working with Rakuten, I maintained it… I thought it was a nice touch I suppose.  So when I was back in my hotel room I went to my Outlook and I checked.  Sure enough: ミッチ. The characters matched up perfectly!

(Does it strike anyone else as odd that the middle character of my name looks like a happy face emoticon? Smile 

Of course, even if they didn’t, I would keep it… I just not plan to display it prominently on my ‘bottle of honour’ for the rest of my life! Smile

Thanks Michael, and thanks Noriko.  This means so much more to me than the bottle or anything else I got in Japan.  It is personal, it is meaningful, and there is a story behind it that I will never forget.

Of course, Michael did not only bring the single bottle to Seattle; he brought one for his own enjoyment as well: A Taketsuru Pure Malt 21 Years Old.  Although it is a pure malt (malt whisky from several distilleries vatted together) it was still excellent, and when I am next in Japan I am not sure that I won’t bring one of these back.  I’m not sure yet, because there are a few others I want to try… probably the Yamazaki or Hakushu Distiller’s Reserve or the Single Malt Miyagikyo 15 Years Old.  We’ll see, I have a few months before that trip so I have time to decide.

And with that, my friends, I think I am going to pour myself a drink!  Enjoy your week.

The Urinating Boy, and the weirdest volunteers ever…

DSCN4456At the north end of Platform 2 of the Hamamatsucho Station on the Yamanote line there is a statue/fountain that may be the strangest I have seen since I got to Japan.  I actually have no business at this station and never would have seen it, except for that another gaijin that I met recently was telling me about it.  I still likely would not have sought it out, but on Saturday I was essentially wandering aimlessly, and when the conductor announced that we were approaching that station (please don’t ask me to type the name again) I decided to hop off and look for it before continuing on my way.DSCN4451

I am glad I was able to find it on my own, because it is quite small, and good as my communications via gesticulations may be I have trouble conceiving how I would have asked someone where this particular statue was.  If it was the Venus de Milo or the Statue of David I would be able to figure it out, but this one … I just have these terrible images of … never mind.

The statue/fountain is, as you can see, of a small boy.  Really it is no more that 75cm tall.  None of this makes this a weird statue.  The fact, however, that the boy is urinating into the pool (a practice I have always thought to be frowned upon) is only the first part of the weirdness of this statue… and if that was the beginning and the end of it I never would have gotten off the train.

DSCN4453Did you notice that the boy is dressed?  This is a weird state for a statue, whether or not the statue happens to be a fountain of a boy continuously urinating into the pool.

Now here’s where the weirdest part comes in.  There is, I am told, a group of volunteers whose task it is to dress this little boy.  Please take a minute to think about this: The statue firstly is quite sealed to the base; as well its weewee is… well, out and in use, I could imagine this causing several logistical issues.  According to my friend (and this is the weirdest part) the volunteers actually custom-sew the outfits, and then dress the little guy, without covering his weewee, and presumably without turning the fountain off.

I don’t know how often they change him, but my friend told me it is often enough.  More importantly, I would love to know how one applies to the position of Member of the Order of Dressing the Urinating Boy Statue… Are there auditions, tryouts, eliminations?  Who selects them?  Is there a compensation package?  Is it a full-time gig, are there term limits?  How long is a term?

So I saw the statue/fountain, and I went about my day.  I will be going back though… my friend told me that they change him every few days, and it is worth checking out the different outfits.  I won’t go out of my way, but if I am on that line passing that station, why not? 🙂

Have a great week…

Thank you readers and Happy Halloween!!

The calendar has turned in Tokyo.  Although there are a few hours left in North America, here it is now Friday, and more importantly it is November.  I got in late from a Halloween party in Shibuya… the whole city was a crazy place tonight, and I have the pictures to prove it (they come later in the post).

In the meantime, despite there being several hours left on the East Coast, October (2013) has been guaranteed the top month ever for The World According to Mitch.  I hope it is a combination of on-point technical articles, and my life experience (currently in Japan) that has drawn so many of you here, and so many of you keep coming back.  Thank you!image

As always I want to hear from you… tell me what you want to see more of, what you like and don’t like.  I read all of your comments, and try to adjust as I can.  In the meantime I promised some of you more wild Tokyo Halloween costumes, so here they are!

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I thought these were some of the wildest costumes I’d seen… as were most people they were only too happy to pose with me,  However the costumes get even more interesting when you look close… I am not a pervert, and would never take and post dirty pictures, but this next photo of one of the girls sitting down underscored the detail put into the costume… namely, their skivvies are also lighting up and flashing!  The people I was with couldn’t help but wonder how well insulated the costumes were, because moisture and electrical charges are a bad mix… Talk about fiery sex!  (Also when they turned their costumes off you could see that their undergarments had been coordinated as well as the rest of their costumes…)

DSCN4403 I thought this next costume was quite clever, and proves that I am not only taking pictures of sexy girls in scantily clad costumes.  I also got to take a picture of two gentlemen wearing naked women’s bodies 😉

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This gentleman was at the bar where I spent the evening, but by coincidence is also from Toronto!  He’s spending some time in Japan just like I am, but wasn’t careful because with all of the zombies out it looks like one of them tried to eat his brains!

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Wow….

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I am not sure what these girls are dressed as, but don’t they look so cute?  (Notice the McDonald’s Golden Arches in the background…)

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I told you they coordinate their costumes, right>

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I wonder if he can predict going home alone tonight?

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It is good to see religion and Disney come together at last…

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Anyone care for some of these guys grilled up with some balsamic vinegar?

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…and finally some truly Japanese costumes… worn by some NOT SO JAPANESE guys…

DSCN4438 All in all it was a crazy night.  You wouldn’t think that dressed as I was (golf shirt and my leather jacket) that I would win a costume contest, would you?  Alas, I did… until it was proven that I cheated.  When I entered I told them that my name was Mariko, and that i was a 22 year old short Japanese girl in full makeup.  When I was announced as the winner the girls in the Red Army/Stewardess costumes (see the photo in front of Cafe Miyama) Attacked me and stripped me naked trying to prove I wasn’t who I said I was.  The trophy was taken away from me, but I think I still came out ahead!

Happy Halloween, Happy November, and thanks again for reading!

A Real Trip… Happy Halloween from Japan!

Saturday night was Halloween.  Okay, no it wasn’t, but obviously all of the great parties for that occasion are on the week-end.  If you can imagine that in Tokyo people seem to dress up in costumes on a regular basis for no good reason, they you will believe that Halloween in Tokyo (and especially in Shibuya) is something you gotta see.

With that being said, I had no idea that it was going to be like that.  The company where I am working in Tokyo hosted a technology conference Saturday, and there are several people from different divisions around the world who came into town for it.  At lunch I met one such person, who is in town for three days from California.  She hadn’t had a decent Japanese meal yet, nor had she seen anything in the country aside from the taxi from the airport.  I asked her if she wanted to change that this evening, and she agreed.  Before the day was out we had collected a couple of other people who wanted to join us, and we headed to Shibuya.

Shibuya Crossing 1For the uninitiated, Shibuya Crossing is something you have to experience if you come to Tokyo.  It is possibly the busiest intersection anywhere in the world.  The picture you see here is everybody crossing in every direction, as seen from the Starbucks second floor window.  This was not taken at a particularly busy time.  However I am told that there was a documentary that set up a camera to check, and at no point in a 48 hour period was nobody crossing the street when the lights permitted.  It is across from Shibuya Station, and if you have ever seen a picture of Tokyo where it is BUSY AND HOPPING, this is likely where that picture was taken (although the entire city is pretty busy and hopping).

After a wonderful dinner (we just picked any old sushi restaurant and had an amazing meal – the best that either Joseline or Damien had ever had, although it was only just as good as every other sushi dinner I have had here) we SwedenJapanSingaporewalked around Shibuya watching people for a while, and then decided to drop into a standing bar that I was introduced to last week.  It’s a nice place with a mix of locals and foreigners, and usually has sports on the large screen TV (tonight it was Manchester United over Stoke, although we didn’t stay to see the end of the match).

We met a bunch of interesting people… at first we were chatting with an eclectic group in costume – the guys were from Sweden and Japan, the woman from Singapore.  I thought it was strange to run into three people together from three different countries… until i realized I was a Canadian hanging out with an American and a Frenchman.  How appropriate indeed 🙂  Later we were joined by a priest and his friend (she refused to don her costume, although I have it on good authority that she had a cape in her bag).  The priest was actually an architecture student from Austria, and his friend (the smallest full-grown woman I have ever had a conversation with) was from Spain.  Again, really nice people.  In fact now that I think of it, everyone that I met there was pretty nice 🙂

DSCN4136 I discovered that here a LOT of people… not just the occasional one or two, seem to like pose for pictures.  This group of girls (and the guy with the hood over his face) saw that I had a camera and they all struck a pose.  I hadn’t (and didn’t speak to any of them, but they wanted me to take their picture, and I was happy to oblige them.  As well there were SCORES of groups and individuals on the street were just posing everywhere to let others – complete strangers! – pose with them for pictures.  I took a picture of Mario and Luigi (yes, THE Mario and Luigi of video game fame… ) because I I thought is was a clever and unique costume… until I realized that there were several dozen Luigis and even more Marios!  What can you do, at least these two were the ORIGINALS 🙂

Shibuya Mario & LuigiThere were a lot of themes to the costumes.  Firstly I should mention that it seems that the order of the day is SKIMPY for women of all ages here.  Zombies, Brides (and especially zombie brides) were all around – as you can see from the picture.  There were super heroes everywhere, a few ninjas and samurai, lots of Power Rangers, naughty nurses, and of course sexy maids.  Speaking of sexy, there was no shortage of women and men in all manner of what could only be described as Bondage Wear, and frankly I saw some of the shortest skirts I have ever seen, as well as one woman who decided to leave the skirt at home and was simply walking around in a pair of panties that were milimetres from being a pure thong.  I confess that the three of us were so surprised by that outfit that by the time we started discussing it we all realized that none of us had seen what the top of her costume was.

I was surprised by how many groups (gropes?) obviously coordinated their costumes, as the group of slain zombie brides who posed for this picture.  They were far from the exception, there were hundreds such groups.  I was truly amazed.

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Now here’s the weird part about it, and what makes Tokyo one of the wildest cities that I’ve ever been to… I was in Shibuya a week ago, and while there weren’t quite as many or as varied costumes as there were tonight, there were still lots of people dressed up – I saw someone wearing a full Star Wars Storm Trouper outfit (complete helmet, not just a mask) last week dancing on one of the corners.  I couldn’t get past Princess Leia’s line: ‘You’re a little short to be a Storm Trouper, aren’t you?’  He was about 5’5, but he was dancing and moving and having a grand old time… as was everyone!

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Have a great week folks, and remember… as this IS the week of Halloween you will be seeing some strange things out there… but I’ll be seeing a lot of them here too, and I’ll try to photograph and blog about as many of them as I can.  Stay tuned, and thanks for reading! -M

Sick…

Caduceus Symbol - Medical Symbol MD

Caduceus Symbol – Medical Symbol MD (Photo credit: wcm1111)

Being sick sucks.  I discovered earlier this week though that it can suck a lot less… if only there were ways of doing things more efficiently.

I had been coughing and sneezing for a week, but Monday afternoon, realizing that I was short of breath after a single flight of stairs, I decided I needed to see a doctor.  It was entirely possible that I had pneumonia, and you try to not mess around with things like that.

Being in a foreign land I asked my boss what the procedure was for seeing a doctor.  He asked Ito-san (one of his fellow managers who is native to Japan), and she looked up walk-in clinics in the area.  It turns out there are are two in the complex that houses both one of our company’s towers and my hotel.  Both asked if they could accompany me, but in a moment of sheer optimism I told them I would be okay.

I found the first clinic pretty easily (Ito-san had printed out maps and circled them).  I walked in, asked the receptionist if I was in the right place to see a doctor, and once that was established she asked me about a Health Insurance Card.  It seems they don’t get many gaijin in the clinic, and as Japan has socialized medicine (take lessons USA) it is usually just assumed that they need not take credit cards.  I confirmed that I had sufficient cash to pay for the visit (under $50) and had a seat.

I filled out their paperwork… fortunately the receptionist was able to translate where my name, address, and phone number went.  I told her I am allergic to penicillin, and she asked me to wait.  Having long experience with long wait times in walk-in clinics and Emergency Rooms, I pulled out my Surface Pro to start reading.  By the time I started on page 4 I was called in to see the doctor.

Remember I mentioned earlier that i was optimistic? The doctor spoke English – if not fluently, then at least well enough to ask the right questions and to treat me.  He told me I would need to have a chest x-ray taken, and I figured that would mean a trip to another clinic, another wait, another….

No! The clinic has their own x-ray machine, and I was not able to sit down before the nurse/technician called me in.  I took my shirt and chain off, and she did her thing.  I put my shirt back on, and went into the outer office to sit and wait.  I didn’t finish another page before the doctor called me in because he had the results of my x-rays up on his screen.

Wow… I was in and out (including x-rays) in under 20 minutes.  The doctor explained the prescription meds I needed, what they were for, and where I could get them.  The visit (including the x-rays) cost 5,900 Yen (about $63).

The meds (five days worth of three different meds) cost another $45.  This was actually where I had the only complication – the first pharmacy I went to (in the same complex) only accepted the Health Insurance Card… or cash.  Because I needed to pay by credit card I had to go to the other pharmacy (also in the same complex).

From the time I dropped my laptop bag in my room, went to see the doctor, had x-rays, went to two separate pharmacies and bought dinner until the time I walked back into my room was under an hour.  If it was that efficient back in Canada I would probably not be so hesitant to see doctors.

Oh, one more thing… I picked up a pack of face masks… in Japan when you are sick it is courteous to wear them so as to prevent spreading your germs to others.  I wore one for breakfast, to my meetings, and when I went out for lunch and then for dinner.  My boss commented that I didn’t look out of place here, and in fact people would appreciate that I was being courteous.  If I wore this mask in public in Canada people would think I was going to rob them at knifepoint.

I may not be happy about being sick, but I am thrilled by the efficiency with which the Japanese system deals with illness.  As per the doctor’s orders I am spending a couple of days in bed (yes, I went to the meeting AMA… it was a very important meeting) but I will be much better when I go back to the office on Thursday… and nobody on my team will worry about catching anything from me!

Big in Japan: The Week That Was…

For those of you who follow not only my blog but my Twitter as well (@MGarvis) you will likely know that I have been walking a lot since I got to Japan, and my FitBit (www.fitbit.com) has all the proof you need.  You may also have noticed that Tuesday and Wednesday this week my daily steps dropped from an average of 15,000 steps per day to about 2000 steps for those two days.  That is because I caught a bad chest cold and spent two days in bed – which is to say I was working from my hotel room, but once my actual work was done I did not have much energy for blogging.  Sorry fans… but I’m back!

I have now been in Japan just over three weeks, and have on several occasions mentioned how clean I have been finding it.  Listening in on a conversation yesterday between two people with more experience here than I do I think some of the reasons became clear.  One of them described Tokyo as ‘shared space’ – a country that is two small and too populated to allow for much privacy, and so when you are out and about the honourable thing to do is to show everybody the respect of their shared space by keeping it clean.  That is why almost nobody litters, spits, or any other impolite behaviour that we might consider commonplace in the west (and most other parts of Asia)… out of respect for each other.

In ancient Japan – really not that long ago – most walls were made of rice paper.  As such there was no real privacy – it was easy enough for your neighbour to know your business.  I have heard it told that because of that it is commonplace in Japanese culture to always maintain a completely polite exterior, even when your feelings are very impolite.  Maybe that is one of the reasons that there are few PDAs (Public Displays of Affection) in Japan.  It is also likely one of the reasons why everybody at my office seems to like me – whether they do or they do not, it is customary to show outwardly that you do.

DSCN4019 Last Monday I was walking around an area called Osaki when I noticed these tiles in the ground.  It was interesting to see just how far I am from home – if we are 10,350 kilometers from Ottawa, we are not that much closer to Oakville – say, 9,950km to be conservative.  There is no question that I miss it (especially the people), but at the same time I am really enjoying life here.  It would be nice if I was not stuck living in a shoebox hotel (please don’t misunderstand, it is a really nice and clean hotel, but the rooms are extremely small) but other than that, life here is good.  I am seeing a lot of cultural differences both at work and out and about, but that is not a bad thing.  I have never been one to poo-poo cultural diversity.

DSCN4049 My friend and Master Dimitrios Beis spends a lot of time at different industry shows and fairs in and around Toronto – wedding shows, food and drink shows, and the like.  It is part of his business, and he has on several occasions invited Theresa and I to join him there.  When I stumbled upon a similar type of fair in Osaki on Monday I thought of him as I walked around, sampled some of the foods (I had aDSCN4065 wonderful fried chicken dish for lunch, followed by a couple of sesame balls for dessert… scrumptious!) and took some pictures of the people and booths.

There were several ‘cartoon characters’ in costume walking around, and the kids were flocking to meet them.  There was also a booth sponsored by the Tokyo Fire Department, where kids were invited to try on their gear (sized down of course) complete with the helmets.  The kids were having a ball, and the parents were taking pictures of them with their ear-to-ear smiles.

DSCN4044 Just as they would in Canada, some people brought their dogs along.  This was, after all, and outdoor fair, and as long as the dogs are well behaved they are a welcome addition to any setting as far as I am concerned.  This gorgeous girl was very happily sitting in a pram, and seemed content to smile at people who wanted to pay any attention to her, as I certainly did.  Her owner was working one of the booths, but she obviously knew that puppy was well behaved enough to not try to escape.

DSCN4056 When I say there were all sorts of booths, I am serious – there were crafts (both pre-made, and ones for the kids to participate in) ranging from Japanese pottery to drawing to flower arrangements). There were dancers, there were plants – this tree pictured is actually less than a foot tall, and an amazing sight to see.  It struck me as very… Japanese.  I could imagine Mr. Miyagi having trees like this if he had fruit trees.

All in all everyone seemed to be having a good time, which I suppose is the entire point both of a fair and of a holiday Monday.  The kids were laughing, smiling, dancing, playing, and eating.  The parents did not need to chase after them – the perception I have is that they are much safer in general in Japan than they might be in Canada, with no threat of kidnapping.  The vendors were sharing their wares – as soon as they realized I spoke no Japanese the majority of them knew there was no sale to be made, and yet they convinced me to try different teas, finger foods, and breads.  I did buy my lunch of fried chicken and sesame balls (the two dishes, from two separate vendors, cost a staggering 600 yen, or about $6).

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This was only one bit of my walking for the last week, but it was a very memorable part.  I have seen so many wonderful places and people that it would be impossible to tell you about all of them… but trust me, if you have never been to Japan you should definitely get down here!

My Japanese Diet

With two notable and disappointing exceptions, I have eaten only Japanese food since I arrived in Tokyo.  I have tried the Chinese restaurant one more time – it may taste good, but the food has not agreed with me so I will not be trying it again.  Other than that, really I have stuck to local cuisine.

I started trying to lose weight – that is to say, truly changing my eating habits – about a month before I left Canada.  One of the things I had been doing is logging everything that I ate.  I used a tool called My Fitness Tracker (www.myfitnesstracker.com).  It helped me to not only track but also be aware of what I was eating, including fat, sugar, protein, and carbohydrates.  It allowed me to enter everything into my Smart Phone, and even had a barcode scanner so that I could just scan the code of what I was eating and be done with it.  If you spent any time with me at all in September you probably saw me use it.

DSCN3962It is a lot easier to keep track of what you eat in North America for several reasons.  In Japan I can’t figure out the food labels, and anyways I am hardly eating any pre-packaged foods.  However my typical breakfast looks a lot like this picture, and for good reason… that is a picture I took of my breakfast this morning.

My hotel includes a buffet breakfast which in the past would have meant my gorging myself, but I am trying to change my habits so that is out.  Yes, those are corn flakes in the top left corner, but add to that a bowl of miso soup, a couple of pieces of grilled fish (I am not quite sure what it was today… maybe mackerel), some Japanese omelet (tamago), and some grapefruit slices.  You may have noticed the glass of water in place of either tea or coffee… I have not had a cup of coffee in nearly six weeks, and I am really trying to minimize my tea/caffeine intake.  I am, however, trying to maximize my water intake, and this is a great opportunity to do so!

Incidentally there is a decent salad available with breakfast; some days I partake, others I do not.  Today I was running late so I skipped the salad course.

Lunch is served every day in the cafeteria at Rakuten.  There are several choices, and I usually opt for something rather healthy… although truth be told I am not always certain of what I am eating.  I am not eating a lot of beef, although Tuesday I opted for the beef dish because the others did not seem as appetizing.  It was good, and as with every meal at Rakuten it was accompanied by a bowl of soup, two side dishes (salads of some sort), and a dessert – yesterday it was a black bean and sesame pudding that was outstanding.

DSCN3875There is a restaurant down the way – maybe five hundred metres from the hotel – that I found out recently is called Sakura.  I have eaten most of my dinners there.  It is quite good and reasonably priced.  For the fist few nights my fare was the same: an order of sashimi, a plate of edamame, and a bowl of miso soup (see a pattern forming with the soup?  I thought so…) but I have started to change that up a little now that I am a little more comfortable.  While I had given up white rice entirely in Canada I have come to realize that it is a futile battle in Japan, and so I have caved.  Some evenings I will opt for the sushi (nigiri) instead of the sashimi.  As well I have tried the fried chicken (it is wonderful, and does not seem as greasy as in North America, the seafood pizza, and a few other dishes.  I had dinner with a colleague last week and he ordered for us… including deep fried chicken cartilage, and a plate of squid jerky (I am not making that up).  Oh, and the deep-fried octopus was also wonderful.

If it seems odd or boring that I am going to the same restaurant every evening let me assure you that a) I am not bored, b) I am not on vacation, and c) it really is wonderful food.  The most expensive meal I have eaten there was under $20 per person (remember I am not drinking alcohol).  It is very convenient though, as it is just a quick walk from the hotel.  It is also a few doors down to the gym where I have started training – more on that later.

On the weekends I am venturing further out.  Last weekend I had lunch at a restaurant in Asakusa which served a soup dish which wasn’t bad but wasn’t my favorite.  This week-end I will probably end up downtown for at least one evening, and will experiment somewhere new.  As for weekdays, I am more concerned with getting my work done, working out on the nights that I do, and walking on the nights that I do not.  I am also trying to get to bed at a reasonable hour which means getting onto a train and exploring Tokyo may not be a great idea.  On the weekends though… Oh, I will explore!

An interesting note about lunch at the cafeteria: it is free, but they are very observant about what you take – there are signs at every station telling you how much of which you are allowed, down to the number of cherry tomatoes you can take for your salad.  I suppose it makes sense – the company is paying for lunch for over ten thousand employees, and letting people go free could cause cost overruns… and when they saw me coming they must have freaked 🙂

Incidentally, if you are wondering how well it is working, I am probably down 5lbs since I got here.  I didn’t mention all of the fruit I am eating, but that is part of the diet too (and counted.. when I figure out how to input the rest of my food).  Tonight I’m heading to the gym again, followed by Sakura (which by the way means Cherry Blossom).  See you tomorrow!

A Twist…

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Coco-park-security-guard (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

If you are a frequent reader of The World According to Mitch then you know that I very often take experiences that I have had (or observations that I have made) and apply them to the world of IT.  For a change, I thought I would take this opportunity to go the other way.

This morning I was caught in a security trap in my corporate desktop.  I downloaded a number of (rather large) files on the desktop, and was going to then transfer them to the laptop on which I need them, but which I was in the process of configuring and was rebooting several times.

Once the downloads were complete I plugged my handy USB hard drive into the Super Speed port of the desktop, selected my files, and clicked Copy.

“I’m sorry Mitch, I can’t let you do that.”

What do you mean?  It read like a permissions issue, but after about fifteen seconds I realized that there must be a GPO (Group Policy Object) preventing users from copying files to external drives.  I have in the past suggested this as an option… I had even heard that it was a policy here, I just wasn’t thinking.  It is a decent (if not infallible) policy for preventing sensitive data being removed from the company.

I was speaking with a North American colleague at lunch and he asked if I wanted to try a few ways of bypassing the policy (rather than waiting the several hours for the files to download again).  I said thank you, no… I am in a country where people follow the rules, and I am not going to go against that.

It is true… Japan is a country where people seem to do everything ’by the book.’  Some people jaywalk, but the vast majority of people do not… and most of the people who do are foreigners (gai-jin), or have at least spent time abroad.  They do not spit on the street, and there is hardly ever any litter.  Again, I have seen discarded cigarettes and pop cans and such, but it is invariably in an area where a lot of foreigners congregate.

In Canada you had better look both ways before you step into the road when the light turns green… too often cars are going to speed up and follow the three-second-rule of red lights, and you may be putting your life on the line.  Not here… I’m not saying that it doesn’t happen, I just haven’t seen it happen yet.

The Japanese culture is an ancient one.  While they have come a long way from the days when ‘peasants’ could have their heads lobbed off for not bowing to a samurai, there is no question that they are a people who follow the rules and do things by the book.  Is that a bad thing?  I don’t think so at all.  Funny, because there was a time in my life when I completely ignored the rules… I lived by my own rules, and even broke those when it was convenient.

I like a society where things are orderly and predictable, and not because of any militarily imposed regulations (fascism and communism both produced a number of cultures where people followed the rules not because they wanted to, but because they were afraid not to).  I like that here people greet you (although I am still trying to figure out a lot of the greetings, and can only assume they are not making fun of me).  People bow, people it is the polite way to greet people (and because they do not seem to like shaking hands, unless you are a foreigner at which point they seem quite insistent on it.

Having worked in security firms before I am amazed by the security guards here… each one’s uniform is pressed and their shoes are polished; they are always standing and always look you in the eye.  They greet you as well, and help if needed.  I had to ask someone to confirm that they were not all in the military, because many of them seem to stand with a pride that North American security guards just don’t have.

There seems to be an order to everything here, from the way people behave in the elevator (there is always one person closest to the panel who immediately presses and holds the Open button until everyone getting off has done so and then people getting on have too).  Walking in the stairwell at the office (which we have to do because the elevators only stop on certain floors) people going up are on one side, people going down on the other.  The only exceptions to this again are the foreigners… and mostly only the recently arrived ones, because the way things are done is conducive to people wanting to learn.

I am not saying that there are not people who are not as accepting of foreigners… I have seen a couple of sneers from people on the subway as they mutter quietly to their friends.  However overall I have had nothing but positive experiences, and patience from the people who know that I obviously do not speak the language.

Back to Japan!

I got a nasty email today from a friend who is angry that I have been writing about PowerShell.  Actually to be completely accurate he doesn’t care that I blog about PowerShell, he is just upset that it has been several days (a week?) since I last wrote about my travels in Japan.  I am sorry about that, and I will try to keep the balance for both audiences 🙂

It has been an interesting week; firstly I was thrilled that on Thursday afternoon I was finally able to charge my FitBit, meaning I was able to start tracking my steps, et cetera. That may not seem relevant to you, but on a weekend when I can either go walk around and be a tourist, or I can stay in my hotel and watch movies, when there is incentive to get that 20,000 step day can be the difference (and it was on Saturday).

I am staying in an area of Tokyo called Shinagawa Seaside.  It is a very nice area – not downtown, but there are still a lot of businesses around here – the office towers of Rakuten where I am working are both within a block of the hotel, and Microsoft Japan is a ten minute taxi ride away.  I am getting to know the area very well, because even when I am not out and about exploring Tokyo, I am walking around Shinagawa every day or evening.

DSCN3910I found out the other day that Shinagawa is built on reclaimed land, which means that by all rights there should be plankton here and not offices.  Nevertheless here we are.  However there are several signs within a few blocks that point out our elevation – I have seen them ranging from 1.8m above sea level (right outside my hotel) to 2.8m above sea level (about three km by foot from the hotel).  In a land recently hit by typhoons, tsunamis, monsoons, and earthquakes this is a bit unsettling to be sure, but I assume that if nobody else is particularly frightened by it then I can live with it too.  The 2.1m picture to the right of this paragraph is just outside the office tower where I am working.

DSCN3916 I think I mentioned in a recent post that the Rakuten Eagles, the baseball team owned by the company where I am working, won their first pennant ever last week.  The lobby of Rakuten Tower 1 has been completely filled with flowers since, and one day last week there was a celebratory meal in the cafeteria – complete with a very nicely decorated cake.  I am glad that I was able to take a picture before everyone dug in, because I ended up getting the last piece of the last cake that the had.  I should have asked how many cakes they actually baked so that all 12,000 employees could have a piece.  I will tell you this… victory tastes good!

DSCN3917 Saturday I opened my tourist book and decided to take the train to Akasuka, an area that is not only bustling with commercial activity (spoiler alert: the entire city is like that) but also has some amazing sights to see.  The Sensoji Temple is said to have been built in 628.  It was a rainy day, but it didn’t matter… I had an umbrella, and I walked the five minutes from Akasuka Station to the holy site.

It’s funny, but when you are in a strange land where you can’t understand a word that anyone is saying it is even easier to pick up familiar tones.  Just outside of the train station I did a double-take when I heard an older couple (Reuven and Eilat) speaking Hebrew.  I introduced myself and they invited me to join them.  We walked through the throngs of people carrying umbrellas toward the temple.

DSCN3926  While it was great to be able to speak to people in a familiar language for a while, their idea of interesting and mine did not seem to connect.  They wanted to see the temple, but as soon as they saw it they wanted to leave and head to the next subway station to see something else.  I understand, because they are in country for a few days and want to see as much as they can.  I, on the other hand, will be spending a lot of time here over the next few months, and I wanted to look around the grounds, which it turns out are amazing.  There is a Five Story Pagoda, and the gardens are magnificent.  I am glad that I came back and strolled around after splitting with the Israelis… there was just too much to see to only spend five minutes in the temple and then turn around and go home.  Below is a picture of the ancient bridge, with signs asking people not to feed the carp (which are huge).

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I finally stopped for lunch, but that mission was a failure.  As I was alone I was told to sit at the counter with my back to the room… not my favorite position my wife will attest.  Before I could even order I was actually hit (hard!) on my back… although not with any malicious intent.  An older gentleman did not realize there was a step, and he swung his arm trying to break his fall.  Look, I know he didn’t mean anything by it, but that doesn’t change the fact that it hurt!  I decided that it was a bad omen and removed myself from that restaurant.  I ended up eating a bowl of fish and chicken soup with noodles with a side order of gyozo (dumplings).  The soup wasn’t great… the dumplings were good.  What was spectacular though was the dessert that I had at a market stand a few blocks away… If you have ever had the sesame balls in a Chinese restaurant, imagine those, but not fried, and wonderfully prepared… for about the equivalent of $.80 it was like a taste of heaven… and I am glad that I had the willpower to stop at one!

There is so much more to tell, but I will save it for another day – tomorrow, don’t worry!  Thanks for reading!

Akihabara

I hadn’t planned to get up particularly early, but I suppose i am still a little jet lagged; I left the room at 8:30, had breakfast downstairs, and headed to the subway.  While I grew up a master of the Metro system in Montreal, I am still not particularly familiar with the Toronto subway system, with the exception of the five or so stops I have taken on a regular basis.  Let’s assume that if I were to stay in Tokyo for a hundred years I would not get to know all of this system…

Tokyo-Metro-Map

So to answer your question, yes I did accidentally get a little lost… but not terribly so, and only on the way back to my hotel.  It wasn’t a big deal though – the line I was on is a loop, and I got on going in the wrong direction.  Once I figured it out I realized it was just as easy to stay put and get off when my stop does come around 🙂

DSCN3907I opted to visit the Akihabara area first because everyone told me to… it is an incredible collection of electronic retailers and more… on a scale that puts New York City’s to shame.  I had no interest in buying anything, but I did want to walk around and see what was on offer.  The simple answer is… everything… and more.

The building pictured (Akiba Zone) is not nearly the only one of its kind, and I am not entirely sure how to describe it.  It seems to be a vertical shopping centre that focuses primarily on anime-type goods, but there is also an army surplus store in it, and a cafe at the top.  The bottom line is that it is a shopping complex that you would think was devoted to kids, except that there are areas of some of the stores that are 18+ only… and for good reason.

I have been here four days and I have yet to figure out if in Japan the porn is anime, or if anime is their pornography.  I think might actually be a little of both.  I will say that there seems to be an unhealthy focus on these characters – they are everywhere – and some of them are not things that children should be exposed to.  However it is not simply animated movies… there are DSCN3879comic books and figurines (shown) on a massive scale that can be overwhelming to the feint of heart.  Heck, it can be overwhelming to anyone!

Why are they disturbing?  The first store I walked into had a hundred displays like the one pictured here.  The figurines have prices that start at about $20… and some of them are in extremely disturbing poses!

I am not entirely sure which scares me most… that people think these up and create them, or that there is a market sufficiently large that there are stores dedicated entirely to this… genre!

DSCN3881Incidentally there was another block (this one only 4 stories tall) that was dedicated to adult entertainment.  There was an interesting twist to it… Each floor was dedicated to a specific theme (for example, Floor 2 was toys for women).  The 3rd floor was for men… and while men were allowed on the 2nd floor, women were forbidden on the third floor!  I thought this was weird… but hey, I am learning.  No, I did not take pictures! 🙂

I turned down an alleyway in the Electric Jungle and came across this scene… a very traditional Japanese dwelling, complete with the garden.  I am not sure if this is a private home or a memorial or something, but it was certainly anachronistic in this setting… and a welcome change 🙂

Speaking of anachronisms, The Yushima Seido is a shrine to Confucius, and  is an amazing structure just a few blocks from the hustle and bustle of Akihabara.  It cost me 200 Yen to get in (about $2) and it was well worth it.  here are a few pictures…

DSCN3887DSCN3893 DSCN3888 DSCN3892 DSCN3894 DSCN3890DSCN3900

…it is amazing to think that all of that beauty is right behind the trees on the other side of this roadway pictured:

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I must have done five miles of walking, so I am glad that I wore my sneakers.  I came back to the hotel to write (I haven’t forgotten my faithful readers!) and to rest up a little… Tonight is another adventure!